When is the car warmed-up?

[Norville]

Re the lack of oil tank, I wish that was a joke too, but sadly Porsche started using the term "integrated dry sump" a while back, which is what our Turbo cars have. To me, it's kind of like calling roll-down windows "integrated air conditioning." Here's a good article that makes the point pretty bluntly about the so-call "integrated dry-sump" system being, in fact, a wet sump (oil pan) system.

https://lnengineering.com/products/pors ... &mode=list

Tom- thanks for posting that site, hours of reading on the minutia of engine oil…

[Bluehighways]

I wait until the oil temperature is greater than the coolant temperature and both have stabilized to decide that the engine is "warmed up".

[rkatz57]

Some words of advise from a Mechanical Engineer...steady state.

Even though oil and water temps are important, so are tolerances and steady state temps for the heat sink...your engine mass and transmission. If you are going to deploy red-lining or launch, I would recommend doing it subsequent to all systems reaching operating temps and maintaining that status for some time.

Otherwise, you place undue wear onto your beloved 911...just relate this to an air cooled 911....depending on ambient temps it can take 20-30 minutes to truly reach steady state. Nothing wrong with a heavy foot, just use it wisely.

[Jfort]

I've followed Jake Raby's advice: Keep the revs below 3000 until the oil temp reaches 200. He's the owner of Flar 6 Innovations, BTW, and knows a little about Porsche engines. Usually 6-8 minutes of driving time will reach that level unless it's really cold, in which case you probably shouldn't be driving a sports car with high performance tires anyway. So, Tom, you're right on track.

I agree with this. To facilitate, I have a shift light that I installed to avoid over-revs but has an added advantage. I programmed it so the first light comes on at 3000. I drive so that it doesn't come on until the oil is hot.

[GT3Twenty10]

Jake Raby@ flat-6’s advice is the best… let the high idle calm (takes 30 seconds), then drive below 3k until it’s at normal temperatures. It’s really simple. It takes me
a little extra time because of the wood ramps on the indrive (classy!!) but it’s just the way it is.
I just let the high idle calm and drive nicely out the neighborhood and by then it’s usually up to temp… I do not drive mine Nov-February, or March tho…. No snow with the 911

[Ls9009]

I've followed Jake Raby's advice: Keep the revs below 3000 until the oil temp reaches 200. He's the owner of Flar 6 Innovations, BTW, and knows a little about Porsche engines. Usually 6-8 minutes of driving time will reach that level unless it's really cold, in which case you probably shouldn't be driving a sports car with high performance tires anyway. So, Tom, you're right on track.

Ooop's I drive mine year around..Just went on a grocery run this morning and it was 31F out. I just use common sense and I never let it warm up just sitting in the garage...it seems to be working for me. My newest 911 is a 992S.

[blueline]

I've followed Jake Raby's advice: Keep the revs below 3000 until the oil temp reaches 200. He's the owner of Flar 6 Innovations, BTW, and knows a little about Porsche engines. Usually 6-8 minutes of driving time will reach that level unless it's really cold, in which case you probably shouldn't be driving a sports car with high performance tires anyway. So, Tom, you're right on track.

Ooop's I drive mine year around..Just went on a grocery run this morning and it was 31F out. I just use common sense and I never let it warm up just sitting in the garage...it seems to be working for me. My newest 911 is a 992S.

You'll be fine in cold weather Ls9009. I think the advise about not driving at all in super cold was referring to tires. Non-winter tires will have next to zero grip and will be unsafe if driving spiritedly.

Also, ultra performance tires such as MPSC2's or MPSC2R's will probably crack if moved in temps below 25° F. (Sidewalls) But I wouldn't think you'd have those on your particular 992, at least not from the factory. Michelin can tell if their MPSC2's have been moved in cold weather and generally will not warrant them in that case. They warn that moving them at all in super cold temps, even if off the car, will cause cracks and failure - they will be useless and must be replaced.

Even though I'm not in a super cold zone, I still prefer to put Winters on the Porsche's so that I can drive safely in cold weather. It's nice to be able to drive year-round.

All of the tire stuff aside, the advice about thoroughly warming the engine before pushing it is very wise.

[Naocha 1]

I live in northern Canada and drive my 991.2 C4 year round. I keep the car outside under a car cover to keep the snow and ice off and will run it when temperatures are -30C or above. I let it wam up for a few minutes then keep the RPM below 2000 till water temp is 90C. I keep it below 3000RPM till my oil temp is 95C then on the ice road it goes for a lot of fun. I recommend winter tires for anywhere that has snow as the car is safer and more surefooted. With good tires, I can plow through a foot of fresh snow without a problem.

[F8Driver]

Water temp comes up quickly. I consider 180F for oil as the minimum for full throttle.

[Racedoc]

Oil 175-180, but wait another 20-30 min for all the internals to steady state (if driving aggressively)