My new 944 ... and it's issues

Naturally aspirated tech and talk
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PSU_Crash
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My weekend in pictures

The driver door harness was a mess. Removed it all since it's hacked up and wasn't connected anyways. Random relays removed and restored to factory wiring. Aftermarket air horn that wasn't connected is also removed ... Door harness is later problem for now.
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AOS is a new 4 letter word. I thought for sure I'd break it getting the lid off. New seals on the way.
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First one on this project. I call that a win
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This isn't my first adventure with a nelgected 80s basketcase. Howerever, the state of everything non metallic is surprising to me. It's all broken or so brittle that it is about to be ... Ordered the vac line kit and other items from 944online this time.

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This appears to be for fuel vapor venting, correct? There thermo valve this used to connect to on the rear water jacket is, of course, broken. I am assuming that this can all be deleted and replaced with an anti roll over valve and a filter. What do you suggest?
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'86 Zermatt Silver 944 N/A :thumbup:
'86 Mitsubishi Starion - Purpose built SM class Autocross car
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#31

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stoneguy
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I can appreciate the situation. Even though my 86 was babied, I have had similar scenarios as time goes by. Replacing virtually every rubber, plastic or fabric hose, cracked electrical connectors and rebuilding almost all the systems on the car over the years. Keep at it, don't give up, she'll be worth it in the end.
Todays motivational speech is over now...
LOL

#32

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PSU_Crash
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Thanks for the words of encouragement @stoneguy! Your vacuum diagram shared in another post helped me out a lot too!
I'll keep at it for sure. One of my other 80s toys that I have owned since 98 taught me a lot about patience.
'86 Zermatt Silver 944 N/A :thumbup:
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#33

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Last night I decided to dive into the timing belt, balance belt and water pump replacement. I was pleasantly surprised to see the new style components.
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The engine was rotated to TDC via the cam sprocket marks. Then I checked the flywheel TDC marks. If I have the flywheel TDC marks dead lined up then the flywheel lock won't engage the ring gear. The important part is to make sure the cam doesn't get out of time, so I think I am fine. Correct?

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Balance shaft timing on the other hand looks to be 1 tooth off. I did not check the lower shaft yet.
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'86 Zermatt Silver 944 N/A :thumbup:
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#34

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Tom
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I think you're doing ok. :) I've never had a problem using the flywheel lock with the motor at TDC though, so that's a little curious. How far off is it? Factory flywheel lock? You sure it's off? I can't see the pointer in that picture but the "OT" and TDC line look about where you'd expect them in that picture. Either way, the Flywheel TDC mark is the true tdc -- the cam gear will be affected by slack or lack thereof in the belt, so best to set it to TDC using the flywheel and then confirm the cam is lined up. The primary purpose of the lock for me is to loosen and tighten the front pulley bolt without rotating the motor (and smashing the pistons into valves). The lock keeps the motor from turning while working on the belts too, of course, but you'd need to really torque on something to bend valves or cause damage, and you'll need to line things up anyway when you put the belt on.

p.s., And yes that b/s looks to be off a tooth... :problem:

#35

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I was pretty sure it's fine, just needed a little confirmation since this is my first go at a Porsche. Not going to lie, I think the lock came from Amazon... so there's that possibility too. No, I am not sure it is actually off. It's a little difficult to get a straight on look when it's on stands. As it is I'd guess the cam is a degree or 2 advanced with engine at TDC. A little timing advance is good for the soul, just not too much 😆

I have been getting most of my how to info from Clark's garage. What a resource! From what I can tell the driver side of that nub above the flywheel in the window should be even with the OT mark. It's maybe 1/16" off. For more precise holding im sure i could slot the holes just a bit and set it dead on. Either way for this purpose I'm good to go.

As always, thanks for the reply Tom! Time to get dirty

Forgot to mention, that timing belt was LOOSE! Definitely needed some TLC. With the new belt I wouldn't be surprised if it all lines up.
'86 Zermatt Silver 944 N/A :thumbup:
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I underestimated the water pump replacement. First off that crank bolt is freaking tight! I got it, but wasn't expecting that. Now if I could only get the crank pulley off. I have several 3 jaw pullers that don't fit in there with the radiator in the way. Pretty sure that rear cover is getting modified once it's off.
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stoneguy
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Do yourself a favor as long as you have everything apart. Do a front seal job. Crank and cam seals. Also maybe cam seal races and onion seals. Not a lot of money but a good call if everything is apart. These cars are notorious for front end leaks.

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Crank seal and o-ring should be here today. Something is definitely seeping around there. I didn't grab cam seals since that area is dry. I'm hoping the crank gear surface isn't worn... I didn't think of that when ordering parts.
'86 Zermatt Silver 944 N/A :thumbup:
'86 Mitsubishi Starion - Purpose built SM class Autocross car
'87 Chrysler Conquest - Mid LS Swap

#39

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Before I put the AOS back together with a new seal, should I drill out the top vacuum line hole? Seems odd to me that it has a large vac line and a small hole through the lid. Or do I trust Porshe engineers and just put it back in the way it is? I had a lot of oil in the intake and looking for possible ways to make this a little better. I have put stainless mesh in other cans before with good luck. Thinking of doing the same here just inside the top inner cylinder part with a fine screen on top to keep anything out of the intake. I see others have done something similar. Just looking for advice.
'86 Zermatt Silver 944 N/A :thumbup:
'86 Mitsubishi Starion - Purpose built SM class Autocross car
'87 Chrysler Conquest - Mid LS Swap

#40

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