I learned that you don't need a paint booth, or an expensive spray gun, to tackle modern paint work. I finally got the courage to try some techniques when watching the "Greasy Fingers" channel on YouTube - specifically this video. Paint can be applied with a rattle can, or a hobby air brush. You don't want to paint a whole car this way, but stop worrying about the tool that applied the paint, and focus on the final product. The key for me was learning about 2 part epoxy clear:
"USC SprayMax 2K Glamour High Gloss Aerosol Clear" on Amazon
This unlocks an automotive level paint finish in your garage that is exactly like the clear coat already on your car.
At he bottom of this magic can is what looks like another nozzle. The red button stored in the cap goes here and activates the paint with hardener that's stored inside. Once activated you have about 48 hours to use up the can. At $40 a can, you better be ready to use it on everything you need to clear coat. I have the nicest mailbox on the street.
We start with "Bondo" body filler. I scuffed up the stock surface to ensure the filler would stick well. Mix; Fill; Sand, and repeat until any tiny holes are filled. Gaining experience applying an even coat is what means you won't have to do this 3 or 4 times, but just know that you can always sand it off and try again.
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I then moved on to a sandable primer, and repeated sanding smooth with a 500 and then 800 grit. Primed again and let completely harden for 24 hours and worked the scoops and wing with 1000 grit until the surface was perfect. This is why paint and body work is so expensive. Between every coat I wipe down with IPA and a fresh microfiber towel to remove any dust before applying paint.
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The duck tail spoiler required another round of paint and wet sanding, and took a lot more paint initially than expected. This is an aftermarket fiberglass one, and soaked up paint like a pine board. At $50 a can for custom mixed paint, consider that you would need to have access to a paint shop with a computer mixer, so IMO it's a pretty good deal. I would have used less if I was a little more careful getting blemishes out with cheaper primer. I am wet sanding after every coat of paint. With dry time this is DAYS of work - at a couple hours a day. You're not in a hurry right? Sandable primer dries pretty fast, but the more you allow it to harden the easier it is to sand by not filling your sandpaper with sticky paint.
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I start with a light coat to get the paint to stick and then roll on a heavy coat in a steady smooth motion to get that gloss finish. Wait 2 minutes and then repeat. There are going to be small imperfections and specs. Don't worry, you can wet sand this too. For the clear I start with a 1500 to knock down the spots, and 2000 to get it smooth.
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- Kris
That said, after this last project I could do it again in a fraction of the time. There are thousands of ways to scew it up. I found most of them along the way 
