Get a better experience by installing our free app!
Not now
Install
Get a better experience by installing our web app!
Hide
How to do it?
In Safari, tap on the menu bar. Scroll down the list of options, then tap Add to Home Screen.(If you don’t see Add to Home Screen, you can add it. Scroll down to the bottom of the list, tap Edit Actions, then tap Add to Home Screen.)
For the gauge cluster refurbishment I would recommend North Hollywood Speedometer (info@nhspeedometer.com). I'm going to use them to refurb my gauges and fix the broken OD. For $365 they'll go through everything and replace parts that need replacing. They have an Instagram page at https://www.instagram.com/northhollywoodspeedometer/.
Thanks for the recommendation. I was looking at North Hollywood or Atlanta Speedometer.
The biggest issue is the tach gauge face is damaged (the orange redline section is significantly scratched. I'm hoping I can just get that plate replaced without replacing the gauge. The speedometer has been inoperable for 10 years and I'm sure the other gauges could use a re-calibration.
I have consolidated all of the spare parts and documents that I have for the car in an attempt to organize the chaos. Looks like I have a spare fuel/temp gauge and oil/volts gauge. Both are missing the needles, but probably a good idea to keep as spares or send with the cluster when it goes out for refurbishment. Other parts include the stock airbox (no snorkel or filter), discolored floor mats, a spare set of lug nuts, the transaxle shift linkage, and other take-off items.
The front center console armrest hinge is broken. This was repaired by a previous owner with a door hinge when I bought the car, and I've replaced it once as well. Debating whether to just leave it off since it keeps breaking.
I spent some time reorganizing my toolbox also in the new garage space. I found some old tools that I had forgotten about! I have a generic pressure tester which should be helpful in venting the cooling system. I also have an Arnnworx belt tension kit with flywheel lock, pin wrenches, and tensioning tool. I remember this tensioning tool being difficult to work with, at least for me. So, I'll probably go with the 3D tool designed by Carpokes. It seems more intuitive.
Lastly, service records for the car show two (2) recurring issues prior to my ownership: A/C function and the auxiliary water pump for the turbocharger. Last time the car was on the road, the water pump made a loud noise while running after the car was shut off. This tells me that it is operating after the car is shut down as intended. However, the loud noise sounds like cavitation. Hopefully this is an issue with the coolant system having air in it and not a failure with the pump itself. Other service and repairs in the past seem to be routine maintenance or one-off repairs. Hopefully this car's good service history will bode well for getting it back to driver car status without many surprises.
Took some time to look over the car in the storage unit over the past weekend. Everything else has been removed from storage except for the car. Oil level was checked (cold) and is right between min. and max. and still shows relatively clean. Still due for a change before running the car.
It looks like the coolant reservoir is empty. There are no signs of leaks under the car or in the engine bay, so there must be a very small leak somewhere bleeding coolant over a long period of time. No way of knowing at what time during the 1.5 years the car has sat the coolant all escaped.
Once the weather stays above freezing, I will need to fil the car with mostly distilled water and some coolant and pressurize the system to find the leak. I don't want to run the risk of leaking coolant in large quantities onto the storage locker floor or bleeding into others' units.
Hopefully it is as simple as rubber hoses cracking over time due to cold storage.
Just wondering if it is possible to put some pressure on the coolant system without any (more) water/coolant? At least as a first step? You might be able to hear the hiss of escaping air and save a big mess, especially if water getting where it shouldn't is a concern.
O875 wrote: Wed Mar 18, 2026 10:26 pm
Just wondering if it is possible to put some pressure on the coolant system without any (more) water/coolant? At least as a first step? You might be able to hear the hiss of escaping air and save a big mess, especially if water getting where it shouldn't is a concern.
That's what I was thinking as well. I have an Airlift coolant pressure tester, so I could pull vacuum on the coolant system and spray around with soapy water to find air bubbles and where the leak is coming from.
Trouble is there is no power at the storage unit, so no way to run shop air or a compressor. Will have to get creative with an adapter from the Airlift pressure tester to a portable tire inflator.
For the coolant system, if you are not expecting freezing temps, you could just top off with distilled water and see if anything leaks out. Much cheaper than buying coolant
If it is already low you probably have no idea of the mix in there, and once you know there are no leaks you could fill with a proper mix
I was able to pull a vacuum on the cooling system and saw some coolant pulled back into the overflow reservoir. The tank is tough to see through due to age, so it is difficult to see what the fluid level actually is. It also appears that the vacuum gauge on my kit is broken so I can't confirm there are leaks but didn't hear any air escaping or see any pooling or leaks in the engine bay or under the car. I'll pull vacuum on the system again once I get the replacement gauge. Hopefully the 6-gallon air tank can hold enough pressure to pull a vacuum on the system to 25psi.
Still waiting for temperatures to get above freezing to top off they system with distilled water. I would rather perform a coolant flush and fill with fresh fluids in my home garage instead of the storage unit.
Meine44 wrote: Sat Mar 28, 2026 10:04 am
I was able to pull a vacuum on the cooling system and saw some coolant pulled back into the overflow reservoir.
Just to confirm/clarify, are you pulling a vacuum or pressurizing your coolant system? If pulling vacuum, then soapy water won't do you any good to find leaks because you're not pushing any air out to create bubbles. Also, it is pulling on the seals in the wrong direction. I've used a coolant/radiator pressurizing tool with good success. I combined it with UV dye in the coolant to help track down leaks. Ended up being as simple as tightening down a few hose clamps more than I would have expected.
The tool is cheap. I actually ended up with a brand new extra one, which I'd be happy to sell and ship at a discount.
I received the new gauge for the coolant vacuum tool, and tested it on the car today. It will get to 15 in-Hg of vacuum pressure before coolant starts coming out of the venturi hose.
I left the system under 15 in-Hg of vacuum pressure for 10 minutes and the pressure didn't bleed off, so the system must be sealed. This gives me a fair bit of confidence that there are no leaks on the system. I will plan to bleed the system at the vent and top off with distilled water as needed before driving the car home from storage.
