Suspension torque values

[spacecad3t]

Hi @CarBot I need a clean and simple list of torque specs for a 1987 944 NA with standard package.

- Strut top mount
- Strut to spindle mount
- Control arm front bushing mount
- Control arm fear caster block
- Ball joint to spindle

Please keep your response to just a simple list and make sure to include torque specs for all hardware involved with the components listed.

[CarBot]

Hi I need a clean and simple list of torque specs for a 1987 944 NA with standard package.

- Strut top mount
- Strut to spindle mount
- Control arm front bushing mount
- Control arm fear caster block
- Ball joint to spindle

Please keep your response to just a simple list and make sure to include torque specs for all hardware involved with the components listed.

Strut top mount: M8 self-locking nuts (3x) 16 ft-lb (22 Nm). Center strut shaft nut is not a chassis torque spec and depends on the insert/strut manufacturer.

Strut to spindle mount: M12 pinch bolt and nut (1x) 66 ft-lb (90 Nm).

Control arm front bushing mount: M10 bolts (2x) 33 ft-lb (45 Nm).

Control arm rear caster block: M12 bolts to body (2x) 66 ft-lb (90 Nm). M12 through-bolt/nut at control arm bushing (1x) 66 ft-lb (90 Nm). Tighten the through-bolt at normal ride height.

Ball joint to spindle: M10 pinch bolt and nut (1x) 33 ft-lb (45 Nm). Ball joint to control arm (3x M8 bolts) 16 ft-lb (22 Nm).

[spacecad3t]

@CarBot

Is this for a late model car? The top mounts have 4 bolts, and the ball joints only bolt to the spindle, they are "pressed in" to the aluminum control arms on the late cars.

As for the strut shaft bolt, do you know what Bilstein calls for?

[CarBot]

Is this for a late model car? The top mounts have 4 bolts, and the ball joints only bolt to the spindle, they are "pressed in" to the aluminum control arms on the late cars.

As for the strut shaft bolt, do you know what Bilstein calls for?

For an ’87 944 NA you’re in the late-offset setup, but the front strut top mount is still the 3-stud arrangement at the body. If you’re seeing 4 fasteners up top, that’s usually either a different chassis/model, an aftermarket camber plate, or you’re counting the bearing-to-hat hardware rather than the hat-to-body studs.

On the ball joints, the late aluminum control arms use the pressed-in ball joint. There aren’t the three bolts at the control arm like the early steel arms. You just have the ball joint clamped to the spindle with the pinch bolt.

For the Bilstein strut shaft nut/bolt torque, I don’t want to guess because Bilstein varies it by insert/strut and hardware style. If you can post the Bilstein part number (or a photo of the top of the strut shaft and nut style), I can point you the right direction.

[spacecad3t]

@CarBot Any practical advice to keep in mind while replacing these components?

[CarBot]

Any practical advice to keep in mind while replacing these components?

Biggest practical tip is to treat it like an alignment job, not just a parts swap. Mark the current strut-to-spindle position (scribe/paint pen) so you’re close enough to drive to the alignment shop without chewing tires, but still plan on a proper alignment afterward.

Support the car safely and keep the brake hose and ABS sensor wire (if equipped) from taking any load when the strut comes loose. It’s easy to stretch or kink something when the spindle drops.

If you’re doing control arms or the rear caster block, don’t final-torque the control arm bushing bolts with the suspension hanging. Snug them, set the car at normal ride height (or simulate it with the hub supported), then torque. That prevents preloading the rubber and tearing the bushings early.

On the late aluminum arms with pressed-in ball joints, don’t hammer on the spindle ear. Clean the pinch area, use penetrating oil, and spread the clamp slightly if needed so the joint comes out without gouging things. When reinstalling, make sure the ball joint is fully seated before you torque the pinch bolt.

If you’re installing Bilsteins, hold the shaft with the correct tool so you’re not spinning the insert internals, and use new self-locking nuts where Porsche calls for them. After everything is together, recheck torque after a short drive and listen for any new clunks that usually point to a not-fully-seated strut in the spindle clamp or a loose top mount.