Carpokes

Ok got everything dropped far enough to get some Yamabond into the corners (I hope!!!!).

Question for the group - Obviously had to pull the intake, etc. to get the crossover pipe loosened from the turbo to be able to wiggle a bit to drop the oil pan.

So - to prime the oil pump, I was able to use the pressurized dipstick method. Will the same method work to pressurize the crankcase enough to see if the Yamabond fix works or do I need to actually start/run the car to check for leaks? Definitely don't want to put so much pressure as to blow some other seal, but as long as it is less than the engine makes is that ok? I only put about 15psi in for the priming operation.

-Scott

Drscottsmith wrote: Mon Nov 13, 2023 7:58 am Ok got everything dropped far enough to get some Yamabond into the corners (I hope!!!!).

Question for the group - Obviously had to pull the intake, etc. to get the crossover pipe loosened from the turbo to be able to wiggle a bit to drop the oil pan.

So - to prime the oil pump, I was able to use the pressurized dipstick method. Will the same method work to pressurize the crankcase enough to see if the Yamabond fix works or do I need to actually start/run the car to check for leaks? Definitely don't want to put so much pressure as to blow some other seal, but as long as it is less than the engine makes is that ok? I only put about 15psi in for the priming operation.

-Scott

Never tried it, so can't really say, but kind of doubt it would be very effective as a test -- at least to rule out leaks. When the motor is running, the oil heats up and gets much thinner and more able to wick past gaskets, etc.. Then add expansion of the motor from the heat, plus the vibrations from it running, and that's when leaks are most likely to show up. (Many/most cars that leak will drip after driving, then stop after it cools off.) On the other hand, if you put some air pressure in there and oil starts dripping out somewhere, that would be better than finding after it's all back together. I'd be inclined to put oil in it and let it sit for at least a few days and then carefully inspect for any signs of seepage. Any signs of that when cold will likely be a leak when hot.

Makes sense. I am planning to torque it down tonight or tomorrow and fill her back up then. Fingers crossed!

Ok -

So torquing things down. Which is more important - a gasket with no bulges, or 72 in-lbs?

I have a few bolts that have not clicked, but I can see the gasket bulging a bit.

You will have to make several passes to get the torque values to remain consistent. The rubber gasket will compress and the bolts get loose. Go for the torque values and not the visual.

Oil the gasket and it won’t bulge.

michaelmount123 wrote: Fri Nov 17, 2023 1:54 pm Oil the gasket and it won’t bulge.

Great Tip!

Ok - been a while for this thread but back to it. The initial task of adding yamabond did not work, so ended up having to drop everything and pull the pan.

Initial installation was with the engine upside down on the stand. So I could not see what is shown in the video below. Please take a look and let me know if this is a legit concern or no big deal.

The camera isn't pointed at the gasket/pan when you show the overlap, so just going off your explanation -- but it's an interesting observation. Is it a factory gasket and/or a Victor Reinz gasket? If so, their track record suggests it's not an issue. If it's another brand, I'd be curious to see how it compares to the factory gasket shape....?

Here are some pics. I put a few bolts in just to hold the corners and one at the ‘questionable corner’

The last pic is taken from inside looking up and you can see the Ill-fitting corner.

I am pretty sure this is a reinz gasket.

I don’t have the old one to compare.