Re: Engine starts but stalls after startng
Posted: Tue Nov 11, 2025 3:41 pm
Someone on eBay offers a TPS repair service for around $150
https://www.ebay.com/itm/197603630834
https://www.ebay.com/itm/197603630834
I'll bump it up the list, as soon as the digital timing belt tool is done....Efren wrote: Thu Nov 06, 2025 7:34 pmPlease please doTom wrote: Thu Nov 06, 2025 6:17 pmThey contain a couple of dollars worth of parts. It's been on my list for years to recreate a cheaper version....t36 wrote: Thu Nov 06, 2025 2:20 pm It would be awesome if someone had some spare internal parts for these TPS's.
My old one's internal microswitch failed. I would get hesitation and it would buck when off throttle.
New TPS's are $$$$
Yes I sent to him. He’s a great guy tooPoorsche44 wrote: Tue Nov 11, 2025 3:41 pm Someone on eBay offers a TPS repair service for around $150
https://www.ebay.com/itm/197603630834
great find! I'll send my old one to him!Poorsche44 wrote: Tue Nov 11, 2025 3:41 pm Someone on eBay offers a TPS repair service for around $150
https://www.ebay.com/itm/197603630834
haven’t adjusted the idle at all since it was fine before this started. I did try inspect the TPS and found that the click was not there even after I adjusted the stop. I took the TPS out and sent it to the link above for repair. He notified me that the TPS checked out within tolerance so he’s sending it back no charge.spacecad3t wrote: Sun Nov 16, 2025 8:12 am By chance, did you adjust your idle after fixing the leaks? If your idle bypass is too closed it could be choking the engine. I would close it fully and count the 1/2 or full turns as I close it. Then open it to 1/2 or a full turn more than it was. See if that improves, if still rough, keep turning open small amounts.
My engine loves air so much, mine is fully closed and it's idling high LOL, but I am able to disable my idle stabilizer and the car barely runs, opening the air bypass smooths it out.
From what I'm coming to learn, you cant "close" the ISV, but you can unplug it(remain static) and cap off the inlet. Effectively deactivating it.Efren wrote: Sun Nov 16, 2025 10:42 amhaven’t adjusted the idle at all since it was fine before this started. I did try inspect the TPS and found that the click was not there even after I adjusted the stop. I took the TPS out and sent it to the link above for repair. He notified me that the TPS checked out within tolerance so he’s sending it back no charge.spacecad3t wrote: Sun Nov 16, 2025 8:12 am By chance, did you adjust your idle after fixing the leaks? If your idle bypass is too closed it could be choking the engine. I would close it fully and count the 1/2 or full turns as I close it. Then open it to 1/2 or a full turn more than it was. See if that improves, if still rough, keep turning open small amounts.
My engine loves air so much, mine is fully closed and it's idling high LOL, but I am able to disable my idle stabilizer and the car barely runs, opening the air bypass smooths it out.
Once it get it back I’ll follow some steps I found on your post
How do I manually close the ISV? I’ve seen the test on TOMS video but that’s with the isv out of the car
If I can help, let me know. I should have a spare TPS somewhere...Efren wrote: Mon Nov 17, 2025 3:25 pm Yes I tried adjusting till I would hear the stop but I didn’t get one. Even when I pulled it off it wasn’t clicking. This concerns me since he said everything reads out normal.
Even with a good TPS the DME/KLR may not be receiving the proper signals due to bad wiring. The TPS connector is a good place to examine (under rubber boot).Efren wrote: Mon Nov 17, 2025 3:25 pm Yes I tried adjusting till I would hear the stop but I didn’t get one. Even when I pulled it off it wasn’t clicking. This concerns me since he said everything reads out normal.