Carpokes

Hello! I rebuilt my the engine in my 944 about 9 years ago with all new seals and belts, but it has sat for all that time. I’d say it was driven for maybe 50 miles due to bouncing around body shops etc and from my old house to my new house. I’m gearing up to get it 100% again and I’d like to use this tool . Probably a safe bet to just replace all the belts again. Thanks for sharing

dp944 wrote: Fri Jan 20, 2023 6:46 pm Hello! I rebuilt my the engine in my 944 about 9 years ago with all new seals and belts, but it has sat for all that time. I’d say it was driven for maybe 50 miles due to bouncing around body shops etc and from my old house to my new house. I’m gearing up to get it 100% again and I’d like to use this tool . Probably a safe bet to just replace all the belts again. Thanks for sharing

Awesome -- let us know how it goes! Post some pics in the 944 section if you're so inclined! (And for sure change the belts after 9 years!)

How long does it usually take to print these?

SpreadTheTed wrote: Mon Jan 30, 2023 11:09 am How long does it usually take to print these?

It all depends on how fast you set your printer to.
I think mine took around 13 hours

Very cool tool/design. Hope to try.
Paul

Going to try it, thanks

Just printed yesterday but haven't picked it up from my guy yet. Hoping it will trim out easily etc. My parts for the timing belt service are due any day so we'll see how it goes.

That version with the 'super-brim' was intended for nylon-cf and other filaments that warp like crazy. I was tearing my hair out trying to get a good NylonX print, and finally did that brim to force the issue. I does work, I'll give it that. As long as you use the screws as intended, any plastic will work, even good old PLA. Trimming the edges perfectly isn't mission critical for the tool, so just tearing it away will work, but for nice clean edges, the best thing I've used is a deburring tool like this:

https://www.amazon.com/AFA-Tooling-Debu ... s9dHJ1ZQ==

I just printed mine yesterday. Came out well using ABS. I found the 4 holes around the 3/8"drive to be a little too large for #6 screws. So I ran them in gently with JB Weld epoxy and seemed to be very solid when cured. The other two holes went very well after just a clean out with the appropriate sized bit. Just thinking this may help someone else.

Looks great. What printer did you use? Holes printed vertically on the bed are almost always more accurate than on the holes printed horizontally, so that probably explains the difference in hole size on your print. In the STL, all the screw holes are the same size. JB Weld should work well. Even loose screws would be ok as long as they stay in place. They are just there to add strength. The two that support the tab that goes behind the belt are mission critical, since that tab tends to snap off otherwise. The ones around the socket driver square just help the socket last a little longer without rounding out. Let us know how it goes!!