What did you do with your 718 this week?

[blueline]

My friend @Leader took this photo of my 718 GTS 4.0 on Saturday at the new and amazing Porsche of Woodland Hills. Thanks John!

Not leaving you out of the 718 love fest either Larry!

I think we've determined that the cars are among the best designed ever.

[blueline]

Very nice front

Welcome to Carpokes!

[J-Dub]

I have done it. There was a discussion on another forum and someone posted that Porsche service manual diagram. I ordered a replacement s/c and studied how best to remove the restrictor.

Nice! I now have two delay valves on my workbench. I measured the orifice size to be 1.45mm, this gives me some comfort because the clutch hard line is 8mm, much bigger than the 6mm size of a single brake line. The fitting from the hose and fitting store inner diameter is somewhat small but bigger than 1.5mm, still trying to find an appropriate ping gauge.

I also dissembled the original slave cylinder and it appears that the piston was side loaded when I reassembled it. I am worried I am going to do that again with the new one.

Any tips on a safe install? I tried to put a vacuum on the slave cylinder and keep it depressed for instillation but that failed.

I also found a rennlist discussion on this CDV.

[Ix_]

Can I assume you are installing the s/c with the hydraulic line disconnected, then bolting it in, then hooking up the hydraulic line, then bleeding it?

[J-Dub]

Can I assume you are installing the s/c with the hydraulic line disconnected, then bolting it in, then hooking up the hydraulic line, then bleeding it?

Yes, line disconnected. I installed it last night and it did seem to go in better than the first time. I am going to bleed it now and make sure it seems to work properly and that all of the fitting are holding pressure.

I did confirm that the push rod from the slave cylinder that I side loaded did detach and fall off into the bell housing so I will be pulling the transmission out to retrieve that as well.

Tonight's goal is to validate the fitting are not leaking.....

Edit: I successfully bleed the line, getting good at that now. Used a prop to hold the clutch pedal depressed for 20 minutes. No leaks.

Edit2: Ugg I have to admit I am considering leaving the pushrod in the bell housing. Last night I started to engine to confirm it was in there an not lost elsewhere. As soon as I started the engine I could hear it bounce around a bit then it landed in the bottom and it is not rubbing or making any noise now. Clutch feels perfect and the engine sounds normal. I am considering putting it back together and see what I got.

[J-Dub]

Put the car back together tonight and drove it up the street, it drove great and the clutch felt completely normal. This gave me comfort that there was no other damage to the car and the clutch line is now sorted. If I hit the brakes hard I sometimes get what I presume is the loose pushrod rolling forward into the flywheel.

With that comfort I can now move forward, will start to remove the transmission tomorrow after work. I guess in this situation I don't actually have to remove the transmission, I just have to move it back an inch or two so I can retrieve the pushrod.

[J-Dub]

Car is prepped for the trans removal. Lots of E-Torx fasteners, I had to go to Home Depot tonight to get a different assortment of them as I only had a limited selection of sizes and only deep sockets. In the morning I have to finish removal of the trans mounts, shifter linkage, the 6 bell housing bolts and maybe the coolant lines to the trans cooler.

I also wanted to mention the passenger side CV boot is also slinging grease, albeit much much less that the driver side that started this debacle. The good thing is I know the fix and with so may parts removed it will be easy to service in place.

[J-Dub]

Trans was pulled back and the push rod retrieved. I have re-mounted the trans, the mounts and all wiring that I had to undo. Tomorrow I will address the other CV boot, put back all the bracing, lower plates and panels and I will call this one done.
Trans loose, I actually had to pull it back further than this but you get the picture.


The push rod from the broken slave cylinder.


I tried to take a picture of the push rod in the bell-housing but the focus was terrible and the picture is not that useful.

[J-Dub]

Car is all back together and it drives perfectly again, clutch feels awesome, no strange noises. Feels good to be past that! Learned a lot, enjoyed the journey.

I got new tires for my track wheels, 255/35/19 and 295/35/19 Bridgestone 71RS. The old Cup2s I had were old, worn and slippery. Not sure of they timed out, heat cycled out or just cup2s are not good near the end of life. I decided it was not worth trying to get more days out of them since I have two days planned the first week of November at possibly the best track in Arizona.

In case you need to know this in the future, E18 fasteners can be done with a 15mm 12pt box end and E24 can be done with a 19mm 12pt box end wrench. The engine to trans and the transmission mounts use the E-Torx and though I do have two socket sets of them a few places really need a wrench as there is no room for a socket and they are hard to find locally when you need them.

[Treemagnet]

Car is all back together and it drives perfectly again, clutch feels awesome, no strange noises. Feels good to be past that! Learned a lot, enjoyed the journey.

I got new tires for my track wheels, 255/35/19 and 295/35/19 Bridgestone 71RS. The old Cup2s I had were old, worn and slippery. Not sure of they timed out, heat cycled out or just cup2s are not good near the end of life. I decided it was not worth trying to get more days out of them since I have two days planned the first week of November at possibly the best track in Arizona.

In case you need to know this in the future, E18 fasteners can be done with a 15mm 12pt box end and E24 can be done with a 19mm 12pt box end wrench. The engine to trans and the transmission mounts use the E-Torx and though I do have two socket sets of them a few places really need a wrench as there is no room for a socket and they are hard to find locally when you need them.

Are you running a standard suspension on your GTS and if so, how much camber do you have on the front and rear to be able to fit 255s and 295s in there? I have 19’s and would like to try something similar when replacing the RS4’s at the end of the season.

It’s my understanding the 295s will fit 19” wheels (10.5” wide) on the rear (-2° camber) with a standard suspension, but not sure about the 255s fitting 9” wide 19” Apex wheels in the front with a standard suspension and only -1.6° of camber. The RS4’s still have loads of tread, but at the end of the year they surely will have heat cycled out….they were like iron, unfortunately, they stick like hockey pucks pretty much from day one.