Prototype for Turn Signal Stalk Base

[ROB III]

IMPRESSIVE!
Science and technology based artisan wizardry!

[usury]

Still working on this... I'm pretty close to satisfied. Ran it in the car for a couple weeks. Making some tweaks so the hi-beams latch on (and off) properly. I've learned a lot about how the combo switch works and how absolutely finicky all the clearances are. Truly impressive how the components that control the Lo-Beams, the Hi-Beams, and the Flash-to-Pass feature all interact. (Flash-to-pass is powered separately from the headlights, for instance.) I've learned a lot about 3D printing while developing this part.

PXL_20231118_193257219.jpg (188.6 KiB) Viewed 1312 times

[notny41]

Nice job usury! I like the display of all of the different colored prototypes!

[Tom]

Looking great! It looks like the model itself, and your ability to print it cleanly, are both really coming along. I replaced my stalk with a new one when the original failed. Would be great to repair the old one with this when ready!

[usury]

Looking great! It looks like the model itself, and your ability to print it cleanly, are both really coming along. I replaced my stalk with a new one when the original failed. Would be great to repair the old one with this when ready!

Thanks Tom! A better enclosure made a huge difference in final quality. I got an inexpensive tent-style enclosure. It works.

It's a tricky thing to print. It's a good part for using modifier blocks to make critical areas more robust. Here the modifier blocks (first pic) change print parameters, like infill density and perimeters, that affect interior structure. So nothing to see on the exterior in the second pic (which shows "organic" supports). (Prusa Slicer screenshots here, though other slicers likely offer the same.)

Prototype 07 - Modifiers.jpg (70.5 KiB) Viewed 1252 times

Prototype 07 - Supports.jpg (111.9 KiB) Viewed 1252 times

[Tom]

For a long time, I used to put a big double-walled cardboard box over my (big) Taz 6 printer. Over the years, they started selling acrylic enclosures, which I liked because you could see everything and keep the electronics outside the heat, etc. -- but I'm not at all sure they retained the heat as well as the old cardboard box. I ended up putting a tiny space heater inside the enclosure to help with the warp-prone stuff. For some stuff, like carbon nylons, etc., you basically must enclose and heat it to minimize warping. Since they gave Carpokes a shout out, I'll return the favor by linking to this enclosure company:

https://www.3dupfitters.com/blogs/news/ ... rpokes-com

Not sure where the pressure points are on that part, but another thing I always keep in mind is print orientation and how it affects strength. If you print a domino standing up, it's pretty easy to snap in half between layers. Print the same domino flat on its back, and there's virtually no way to snap it in half.

[usury]

Not sure where the pressure points are on that part, but another thing I always keep in mind is print orientation and how it affects strength. If you print a domino standing up, it's pretty easy to snap in half between layers. Print the same domino flat on its back, and there's virtually no way to snap it in half.

Yeah, this is a tricky part in that regard. It seems the weak points are where the vertical pin on the part meets the plastic combo switch housing on the bottom and the metal plate on the top.

The spring pressure introduced by the tip of the lever against the headlight latch, and the tip of the part against the turn signal latch both work together to continually push against the vertical pin. Not much. They are small springs. But continuous nonetheless.

I printed the part standing on its end so that vertical pin prints in a strong orientation. It also provided nice surface finishes for all the other features, especially the ones that would have ended up on the bottom against break away supports otherwise.

I also printed it with a lot of perimeter walls and a dense wide-extrusion infill that spans multiple layers. I'm sure a determined person could still break it, but it would require deliberate effort.

If you're willing @Tom, I'm happy to send you the STL, or my 3MF from PrusaSlicer with the modifier blocks, layer heights, infill/support settings, etc etc.

I'm still editing a decently comprehensive set of videos for removal, disassembly, reassembly, installation of the combo switch for other DIY-ers. There are some "gotchas" when reassembling the switch, like making sure the brass contact arm for the windshield washer pump doesn't get hung up, blocking that function from working.

However, I think the repair part itself is ready for someone else to try.

I know it works in my car. With all the fresh grease in the combo switch assembly, it works super smooth. Hopefully that means it'll work for other people, too.

[Tom]

Not sure where the pressure points are on that part, but another thing I always keep in mind is print orientation and how it affects strength. If you print a domino standing up, it's pretty easy to snap in half between layers. Print the same domino flat on its back, and there's virtually no way to snap it in half.

Yeah, this is a tricky part in that regard. It seems the weak points are where the vertical pin on the part meets the plastic combo switch housing on the bottom and the metal plate on the top.

The spring pressure introduced by the tip of the lever against the headlight latch, and the tip of the part against the turn signal latch both work together to continually push against the vertical pin. Not much. They are small springs. But continuous nonetheless.

I printed the part standing on its end so that vertical pin prints in a strong orientation. It also provided nice surface finishes for all the other features, especially the ones that would have ended up on the bottom against break away supports otherwise.

I also printed it with a lot of perimeter walls and a dense wide-extrusion infill that spans multiple layers. I'm sure a determined person could still break it, but it would require deliberate effort.

If you're willing @Tom, I'm happy to send you the STL, or my 3MF from PrusaSlicer with the modifier blocks, layer heights, infill/support settings, etc etc.

I'm still editing a decently comprehensive set of videos for removal, disassembly, reassembly, installation of the combo switch for other DIY-ers. There are some "gotchas" when reassembling the switch, like making sure the brass contact arm for the windshield washer pump doesn't get hung up, blocking that function from working.

However, I think the repair part itself is ready for someone else to try.

I know it works in my car. With all the fresh grease in the combo switch assembly, it works super smooth. Hopefully that means it'll work for other people, too.

By all means, happy to try your STL. Not sure if the 3MF file will work if not set up for my printer, so stl is probably best. (Feel free to email or post it here.) I'll can also try printing it on the resin printer. They have some super strong resins if needed. Once you post the full DIY, I'll see if I can repair the original one that failed in my car.

It's an awesome project that will help a lot of people I'm sure, and I'm so appreciative of you sharing it here on Carpokes!

[The_yuriy]

Hello, I am also willing to test on my resin printer. I also have access to an MJF printer. I think that will have the greatest success.

[rbwies]

Are the STL's available?

I would like to put these on my car instead of buying the repair kit, just to be sure its not just the little shuttle bit thats broken.

I've posted other files here before, so I'm not just a mooch!