Thanks. Was going to leave the fuel lines for a future project, but when I was taking out the fuel rail they did feel sketch. Will be replacing them along with anything else that’s needed.
So far everything looks ok. I thought the lifter at the very back was going to be dead but that looks good also.
Cylinder Head rebuilt recommendations
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Head finally out. Overall it looks good. I can see where the #8 valve doesn’t seal all the way. Nowhere near as catastrophic as I thought.
Will be taking it to a machine shop to clean, inspect and repair as needed.
Thanks everyone for all your help.
Will be taking it to a machine shop to clean, inspect and repair as needed.
Thanks everyone for all your help.
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- PSU_Crash
- Posts: 249
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Pull that valve out. We want to see the seat and valve seal area. Something happened there, maybe you can tell more with a closer look. Curious to see what the real damage is. If I suspect a bent valve I will put it in the drill press. It's usually obvious if there's a problem. Based on that mark and the area around it, I'd bet it isn't straight.
Usually that means it kissed the piston. I don't see any obvious marks though. Very curious as to what the failure was. Hope its an easy fix!
Usually that means it kissed the piston. I don't see any obvious marks though. Very curious as to what the failure was. Hope its an easy fix!
'86 Zermatt Silver 944 N/A 
'86 Mitsubishi Starion - Purpose built SM class Autocross car
'87 Chrysler Conquest - Mid LS Swap
'86 Mitsubishi Starion - Purpose built SM class Autocross car
'87 Chrysler Conquest - Mid LS Swap
- walfreyydo
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That valve appears to have a crack in it, but thats something the machine shop should catch and resolve for you. I cant see any marks on the piston so the piston may be fine.
89 S2 Variocam, Megasquirt DIYPNP
Garage
Garage
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michaelmount123
- Posts: 298
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Have the engine shop test all the valve springs too.
Head still at the shop getting serviced. In the meantime time I replaced the engine mounts and replacing the oil cooler gaskets.
Attached image is as good as I can clean the mating surface on the engine side with plastic razors and blue Scotch Bright pads. Is this good enough? Or should I keep going with something more aggressive.
Attached image is as good as I can clean the mating surface on the engine side with plastic razors and blue Scotch Bright pads. Is this good enough? Or should I keep going with something more aggressive.
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michaelmount123
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Cleaning those flat gasket or seal surfaces is quite a task without the proper tool. What you need is a carbide tipped gasket scraper. Once you use one, you'll be happy to have it in your tool box. Being carbide, you can easily damage the aluminum surfaces unless you're careful to hold the tool flat against the surface to avoid any gouging. The gold standard for the tool is a Super Scraper wooden handled unit. They're available in several widths.
i've noticed there are many knock-offs available, but I've no experience with them. Do be sure to get one with a rigid blade with the carbide tip. Cheers.
MM
i've noticed there are many knock-offs available, but I've no experience with them. Do be sure to get one with a rigid blade with the carbide tip. Cheers.
MM
