Carpokes

@fasterfaster , thanks for posting, that looks like a nice entry-level option for someone keeping things mostly stock but wants the ability to tune. As I have posted many times before, I strongly recommend taking some of the HP Academy online tuning courses and buying the tuning/calibration books written by Greg Banish.

That said, I was looking at the specs for the Classic ECU, and it shows only one ignition driver and two injector drivers. Is it possible to configure it with more outputs? One of the main benefits of a standalone ECU on an older platform like the 951 is the ability to update to a better ignition system such as wasted spark (requires two ignition outputs for a four-cylinder engine) or individual coils (needs four drivers, but this is overkill for most setups). Same with injector drivers---sequential fuel injection isn't 100% critical for most users, but is a nice option for idle/low speed drivability with larger injectors.

The Classic ECU interface options for USB, Bluetooth, WiFi, and CAN-bus is a big plus, and allows a lot of flexibility and display options. The VEMS ECU I have was ahead of its time in the late aughts in terms of built-in boost control and WBO2 control and "motorsports" options, but its Bluetooth connectivity is finicky and the display options are limited.

I first installed VEMS nearly 10 years ago with the stock turbo/exhaust/injectors, Tial 38 wastegate but eliminated the AFM for speed/density, and after basic tuning the difference in off-boost throttle response was noticeable. I've since upgraded to a larger turbo/exhaust and injectors and wasted spark ignition (stock coil could no longer keep up), the result is amazing, even with a tired old bottom end of the engine .

Please keep us up to date on your progress.

cda951 wrote: Thu Mar 12, 2026 6:58 pm I was looking at the specs for the Classic ECU, and it shows only one ignition driver and two injector drivers. Is it possible to configure it with more outputs? One of the main benefits of a standalone ECU on an older platform like the 951 is the ability to update to a better ignition system such as wasted spark (requires two ignition outputs for a four-cylinder engine) or individual coils (needs four drivers, but this is overkill for most setups). Same with injector drivers---sequential fuel injection isn't 100% critical for most users, but is a nice option for idle/low speed drivability with larger injectors.

Yeah, switching to wasted spark was one of my goals. According to Dirk/ClassicECU "A second ignition circuit isn’t supported on [his] PCB but we can use one of the I/O on the back of the ECU to trigger an external circuit, e.g. FAN or VSS-GEAR." But the current single IGN output is a driven signal for our stock dumb coils. So the AUX either needs an external driver, or maybe I run both signals out the AUX to a smart coil, which makes more sense to me. Plan would be to use the same 4 wire VAG module with logic level smart coils everyone else seems to use.

I don't have high power aspirations, but I suppose if I ever got to the point that I want to switch to sequential injection, I'm probably at a stage where I'm swapping harness and ECU, and the $500 into this ECU was relatively small money well spent on the process and education.

edit: I have no plans to use the connectivity for display, maybe to play around with a phone app for fun, but nothing I would depend on regularly. but the wifi to laptop connection seems really helpful for the tuning phase so I don't always have to run the wired serial connection.

FWIW I’ve found this ignition table to “feel” the best for my car. Torque under 100kpa feels really good. Throwing it out there just in case you haven’t seen it.

I do plan to eventually get my car tuned on a dyno but for now this table works well. Though not sure if it would feel the same with AFM versus MAP.

https://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche ... -maps.html

Speaking of ignition timing, now is the time to connect a timing light and verify that the values displayed in the tuning software match reality. There is often a function "lock" the ignition timing for this purpose.

Same with key on/engine off checks of all sensor data to be sure the readings are plausible.

Garbage in=garbage out.

cda951 wrote: Sun Mar 15, 2026 1:26 pm Speaking of ignition timing, now is the time to connect a timing light and verify that the values displayed in the tuning software match reality. There is often a function "lock" the ignition timing for this purpose.

Same with key on/engine off checks of all sensor data to be sure the readings are plausible.

Garbage in=garbage out.

Thanks for the tip. So far everything I can verify reads appropriately, except for the WB 02.
- TPS calibrated and shows 0 - 100 through pedal travel
- IAT (still the AFM integrated unit) reads correct ambient at engine off. Don't have a way to to verify across it's range, but am using the BMW E30 325 preset calibration per ClassicECUs instruction.
- MAP is reading about 100kpa at engine off, ~20kPa (edit: 40kPa) at idle, and tables have been factored up to 200kpa (100kpa) though I've still not run the engine off idle.
- Timing at 10 deg (current idle setting) verified

Got the WB and IAT bungs welded in on Saturday, and wired in the WB via the 14point7 Spartan 2 Lite v3. And I was getting readings of max lean, so tested my signal lead coming from the Spartan and it reads over 8V! It should signal 5V at max lean / engine off and 0V at max rich (linear in between). I tested it with the sensor unplugged per troubleshooting to confirm and got the same 8V - so sent a note to Spartan to see if I got a faulty unit. Everything else will have to wait until that's resolved. Internet search didn't turn up anyone else having this problem, so stay tuned, I guess... I believe I wired it properly, but could use an error check:

Engine Harness <--> Spartan
NB power (switched, engine running) <---> Power (red)
NB ground <---> Electronics Ground (black)
NB signal <---> Linear Output (green)
Chassis ground <---> heater ground (white)
Other wires unused (Sim NB Output, LED Output, RX/TX interface)

I might suggest you run your wideband output directly to the ECU instead of using the factory wiring (technically meant for a narrowband o2, which may not matter but still something to check). In my case, Megasquirt DIY PNP has a separate input for wideband O2 signal (as well as the factory input for the narrowband o2, which is no longer needed) so I assume your unit must as well?

This is what I would try just to eliminate any issues caused by using the factory wiring (and also be sure to ground it to the same grounding point as the ECU, ie: the bellhousing).

Edit: Re-reading your post, it sounds like the output coming directly from the WB02 controller is giving 8V and may have nothing to do with your use of the factory wiring. If thats the case then yes, see what the manufacturer says, but you may want to run the signal directly to the ECU in any case (if not just for testing purposes to eliminate factory wiring as a potential variable).

“- MAP is reading about 100kpa at engine off, ~20kPa”

This caught my attention. My car idles at ~40 kpa. From what I’ve read seems my idle kpa (vacuum) is a little on the high side which might indicate a vacuum leak. I’ll need to investigate.

Your ~20 kpa idle is very good. I’m curious what others are seeing for their idle MAP?

Edit: I have a cone filter after deleting the AFM and stock airbox. Would that account for the higher MAP idle reading?

walfreyydo wrote: Tue Mar 24, 2026 4:57 am Edit: Re-reading your post, it sounds like the output coming directly from the WB02 controller is giving 8V and may have nothing to do with your use of the factory wiring. If thats the case then yes, see what the manufacturer says, but you may want to run the signal directly to the ECU in any case (if not just for testing purposes to eliminate factory wiring as a potential variable).

Yes, the output is coming directly from the WB controller - tested with engine running (needed for power) and both with the sensor connected to controller and disconnected. I didn't test it with a sensor installed in free air to see if I could get a lower voltage (should be 0V in free air), as I didn't want to get under the car to uninstall it and don't have a spare WB 02 sensor to plug in. Power and sensor ground are coming from the factory harness; the ECU is plug-n-play so uses the same pin for both NB and WB - they just need to be selected in TunerStudio. I confirmed before wiring in the controller that I was seeing a good ground and over 13V from the power side (only after engine start) of the harness.

Waiting on replies from both ClassicECU and 14point7... both are one man shows or close to so I don't hold it against them if it takes a minute.

944m3 wrote: Tue Mar 24, 2026 6:48 am “- MAP is reading about 100kpa at engine off, ~20kPa”

This caught my attention. My car idles at ~40 kpa. From what I’ve read seems my idle kpa (vacuum) is a little on the high side which might indicate a vacuum leak. I’ll need to investigate.

Your ~20 kpa idle is very good. I’m curious what others are seeing for their idle MAP?

Edit: I have a cone filter after deleting the AFM and stock airbox. Would that account for the higher MAP idle reading?

Sorry, you're correct. Brainfart on my part - it's idling at 40kPa on the nose. You can see in my earlier screenshot, 3rd gauge in top row.

Thanks for that update. Makes me feel a little better now

You mentioned the engine has 200k miles and great compression. I purchased my engine used but was built by a 944 race engine builder. So sounds like you have a healthy engine, if idle kpa is anything to go by.

Still curious to hear what others are seeing for idle vacuum.