Carpokes

amazing idea as usual!

Hey Tom, not to derail conversation. When you removed the headers - did you just loosen them off or pull them entirely? I have a suspicion I may have a crack in one of my headers and thought the whole cam section needed to come off to get them out. Can they simply be unbolted and removed if all the fasteners play nice?

t36 wrote: Thu Jan 08, 2026 9:21 am amazing idea as usual!

Hey Tom, not to derail conversation. When you removed the headers - did you just loosen them off or pull them entirely? I have a suspicion I may have a crack in one of my headers and thought the whole cam section needed to come off to get them out. Can they simply be unbolted and removed if all the fasteners play nice?

I pulled the studs, which allowed me to remove the 2-3 header, and just slide the 1-4 out of the way. In the past, I have removed them both by just removing the studs, but the 1-4 was being a pain and there was no need to struggle with it, so I just left it down there this time. Definitely don't need to pull the cam tower if you remove the studs. Worst case you may need to jack the motor a few mm's to buy a little room for them to clear. Some even unbolt the motor mount so it can jack even more. But start by removing the studs and you'll most likely be able to get them both out.

Tom wrote: Thu Jan 08, 2026 10:10 am

t36 wrote: Thu Jan 08, 2026 9:21 am amazing idea as usual!

Hey Tom, not to derail conversation. When you removed the headers - did you just loosen them off or pull them entirely? I have a suspicion I may have a crack in one of my headers and thought the whole cam section needed to come off to get them out. Can they simply be unbolted and removed if all the fasteners play nice?

I pulled the studs, which allowed me to remove the 2-3 header, and just slide the 1-4 out of the way. In the past, I have removed them both by just removing the studs, but the 1-4 was being a pain and there was no need to struggle with it, so I just left it down there this time. Definitely don't need to pull the cam tower if you remove the studs. Worst case you may need to jack the motor a few mm's to buy a little room for them to clear. Some even unbolt the motor mount so it can jack even more. But start by removing the studs and you'll most likely be able to get them both out.

wicked! thank you!

So normally I put gaskets on dry, but am second guessing myself on this one. The oil filter console gasket is essentially a big o-ring that fits in a channel around the perimeter of the console and seals against the block. It's integrated into a metal substrate these days, but still essentially like an o-ring. I've never used sealant on it, and don't believe the factory used sealant and/or recommends sealant. However, I took a close look at my console while cleaning it this morning and see some pretty serious pitting exactly in the vicinity of the external leak I was having. Now chances are a nice fresh gasket will seal that up, probably, but I'm mulling whether to 'fill' the pits with some kind of sealant before I put the gasket in that channel. I'm kind of an anti-sealant snob, but I sure don't want to do this job twice due to an over abundance of righteousness. What do you all think?

Due to age of the metal and the fact that your 'leak' was in the same vicinity, I'd vote for some sealant in the as they say 'in an abundance of caution' category protection. You have some erosion that likely wasn't there when new, so I'd view the sealant as being cautious, and as you've said, you don't want to do to this again.

Why anti-sealant? Modern day sealants do a wonderful job. Now, I wouldn't suggest running a 3/8in. bead around the perimeter, but a little to fill-in the channel will not cause any harm. Hate to say Tom...that pitting isn't pretty I'd be tempted to look for another housing in better condition.

Oh, the joys of 951 ownership lol

Tom
'87 951

951tom wrote: Sun Jan 11, 2026 6:20 am Why anti-sealant? Modern day sealants do a wonderful job. Now, I wouldn't suggest running a 3/8in. bead around the perimeter, but a little to fill-in the channel will not cause any harm. Hate to say Tom...that pitting isn't pretty I'd be tempted to look for another housing in better condition.

Oh, the joys of 951 ownership lol

Tom
'87 951

Yeah, I actually have a collection of these consoles (long story). I'm just hesitant to switch over because I'd feel the need to disassemble to clean the innards and then test the thermostat in a pot of boiling peanut oil. I ordered a tube of Curil T (now Curil T2) and will give it a try. I'm not sure my other consoles have the threaded hole for the oil cooler hose bracket either -- the early ones didn't. My thought is to install the console (and heater pipe) with Curil T2, then fill and pressure test the system before putting all the other parts back, and let the results choose my console.

My aversion to sealant is just a lingering Boy Scout (Indian Guide?) sense of duty to fix leaking parts properly rather than slathering them with sealant. That probably stems from my youth where my high school firebird was 25% RTV, 25% JB Weld, 25% spray paint, and 25% Pontiac.

I used Curil T2 on mine if it helps with the choice to use a sealant or not!

t36 wrote: Sun Jan 11, 2026 8:07 am I used Curil T2 on mine if it helps with the choice to use a sealant or not!

Thanks, I should get it tomorrow from Amazon -- couldn't find it at any of my local auto parts stores. All the national chains seem to carry nothing but Permatex products and our one remaining independent store didn't have it.

So, I'm spending time changing the bushings on the 968 30mm sway bar and feel the need to clean up the brackets and drop links. They are dirty, but also a combination of black paint, red powder coating, and yellow zinc. Since they are all small enough to powder coat, and I can do it while waiting, I'm mulling whether to powder coat them all in red or maybe yellow, or just do them in satin black? I'm thinking black might be the least boy racer-ish, but open to thoughts. The nuts and bolts will be new yellow zinc, since I have those, so it's really all the other parts with arrows in the picture below. They were all yellow-zinc as made, but it doesn't seem worth waiting for a plater to redo them -- my car won't be confused for an all-original time capsule any time soon either way...

Awesome!! I got my curil t2 from rockauto for fairly cheap.

My vote is satin black with the yellow zinc!!