Oil pan gasket sealing

[michaelmount123]

It's going to be something simple. Oil level okay? Is the toothed sleeve on the crank snout? Carefully review everything you've done since the last run with OP. What did you forget?

[Drscottsmith]

Maybe I got something out of alignment on reassembly on the crank snout. I do have an extra washer on the front to offset the depth of the trigger wheel to allow everything tighten down snugly. I guess I will pull it off tomorrow and check everything and reassemble.

To get the rear timing cover on I did not pull the timing gear off, so everything behind that (e.g. oil pump area) should be just as it was.

[Drscottsmith]

Ok made a new video - please let me know what you see (or not) that I am missing!

[Tom]

You say that is as far as you went with the disassembly, but you also say you removed the rear timing covers, so I'm not sure how to square those two statements...? At 1:58 you say there is no washer. I assume you mean there is no washer between the timing belt sprocket and the balance shaft sprocket, which it right, but there should be a washer behind that timing belt sprocket (which is probably there unless you know otherwise).

I can't tell from that video if the new trigger wheel is preventing the PS pulley from seating at the bottom. I understand the spacer washer at the bottom, but the trigger wheel also appears to be preventing the ps pulley from seating all the way to the bottom. If the trigger wheel is holding the p/s pulley up even half a mm, it could screw up the clamping force needed on the oil pump drive gear. It is clearly holding the p/s pump off the bottom without the washer, and I just can't see if it's still holding the p/s pulley up with the washer in place. Even if the spacer washer is the same thickness as the trigger wheel, that does not ensure the p/s pulley can drop all the way down. It's the inside diameter of the trigger wheel that might be holding the p/s pulley up, if even a smidge. One clue this might be happening is the bottom of the p/s pulley where it looks like the main pulley bolt/washer has been torqued without uniform pressure on the p/s pulley. That can happen on a normal pulley too if your not careful to square things up, but see the pic below for the marks I'm referring to. I'd be inclined to bolt it all up and torque the main pulley without the p/s pulley installed, so see if you get oil pressure. If so, then I'd focus on ensuring the p/s pulley is making 100% flat contact. Sometimes when the pulley goes cockeyed and gets scored/bent like that, the easiest thing is just to get a new one. I'd just be sure your trigger wheel is allowing it to seat all the way, lest you do the same to a replacement! Good luck and keep us posted!

bent pully.jpg (283.25 KiB) Viewed 517 times

[Drscottsmith]

Tom you just have been watching me work today.

I think this video I made earlier this afternoon is right along line with what you are saying.

The big issue is there is enough of a lip of crank snout sticking out past the alt pulley that the new washer will sit on the edge. BUT…the PS pulley has no guarantee of lining up correctly as it will not also sit and center on the lip of the crank. See the torquing dent on the backside of the PS pulley in the video.

So…I have spot welded the washer to the back of the PS pulley (well JB weld but hey) so that the two will stay perfectly aligned when I try again tomorrow. I think I am missing that 0.5mm you mentioned, which is why I get a little bit of pressure at the filter.

Note I also did a better job of ensuring the PS pulley sits uniformly on the trigger wheel now as well.

Will report more tomorrow.

[Drscottsmith]

[Tom]

Re the second video, if you cannot see any daylight between your thinned bolt heads and the p/s pulley, then the trigger wheel is holding the p/s pulley up and off your welded washer -- if that makes sense.

[Drscottsmith]

Ok - back to work. I did notice when I put on the pS pulley with the “welded” washer there was some wobble evident when torqued down (no video).

As Tom suggested - here is a quick vid of the assembly MINUS the PS pulley torqued to 155. Still no pressure, even with addition of air through dipstick tube.

Everything does look square now.

[Tom]

Try pulling the spark plugs out -- it spins much faster that way and more likely to build pressure.

[Drscottsmith]

They already are…also tried to give it a little air thru the dipstick tube while cranking.

I am beginning to think about questioning the torque wrench…