Carpokes

Oh look, a cute little ARP stud / nut!!

The top one looks like it has 2 washers, and the bottom one looks too short for its nut? If they are less prone to corrosion than the originals (?) I'd say they're worth it for that reason alone.

Tom wrote: Mon Jun 23, 2025 5:20 pm The top one looks like it has 2 washers, and the bottom one looks too short for its nut? If they are less prone to corrosion than the originals (?) I'd say they're worth it for that reason alone.

The ARP's come with a smaller black washer, I dont like the contact path with the head so I use the stock washers to spread the load. fasteners can be picky about the finish of the washers to generate the proper torque so i use the APR washers on top of the stock. These APR studs are slightly longer than stock so it all works out.
plus the little one for the water passage is cool!

OK...not seeing full thread engagement on the water passage stud. IDK that would bug me.

gpr8er wrote: Mon Jun 23, 2025 6:11 pm OK...not seeing full thread engagement on the water passage stud. IDK that would bug me.

its a stud that screws into the aluminum block. I made the engineering decision that i would prefer the max amount of threads in the aluminum. It gets torqued to approx. 30 ftlbs so no significant stress.

chris white wrote: Tue Jun 24, 2025 10:29 am

gpr8er wrote: Mon Jun 23, 2025 6:11 pm OK...not seeing full thread engagement on the water passage stud. IDK that would bug me.

its a stud that screws into the aluminum block. I made the engineering decision that i would prefer the max amount of threads in the aluminum. It gets torqued to approx. 30 ftlbs so no significant stress.

I'm confident it will be fine. I'm equally confident I won't be able to sleep just knowing it's out there like that, but of course I've spend the last few days powder coating parts no one will ever see, so I guess it's me, not you.

Chris, is this on a MiD build? What tq are you screwing them down to? I went with something similar but don't know what brand they are. Just know that they come with a hefty reputation. Pics showing compared to stock.

its a nikasil plated block (i like thast better for street use). The studs are ARP with a recomended 105ftlb of torque.
Not made for a 2.7 engine but fit very well

Just out of curiosity, @chris white can you expand just a bit on why you prefer nikasil for street.

My logic is, Alusil blocks have already lasted 30+ years. A freshly bored Alusil block paired with newer oil technology (filters?) and proper maintenance can do another 30 years. But curious to hear your thoughts based on experience.

Alusil has very good ring wear characteristics but very bad strength for ‘foreign objects’ like carbon. Aulsil has been around for 30+ years and I have never taken apart a turbo block with out some degree of scoring.
Nikasil is much harder and you can overbore the block and coat it back to exactly stock size. I also use custom Mahle pistons for different compression rations, pin locations and such, the original alusil piston coating in no longer available.
Nikasil has lower ring friction.
BTW – the Porsche factory 944 race cars used Nikasil coatings….