Carpokes

Hello All,

Took apart my door as I needed to fix the locking mechanism and window operation. I am currently in the process of re-lubing everything and reassembly, but can't seem to find a definitive answer anywhere on what type of grease I should be using on the window regulator assembly (circled below): I have read that others have used wheel bearing grease, lithium grease, etc. I want to make sure that I put the right stuff in there before putting it all back together

Thanks,
Drew

I have no "definitive" answer, but white lithium grease is the "non-definitive" answer.

I like this answer as I already have some of this grease sitting around...

Any idea what product I could use to clean off the regulator? I am considering my trusty can of brake cleaner, but not sure if there is a gentler way to clean off this crusty old part.

people jump on Brake-Clean products for convenience, but there's a significant list of reasons to move Brake Clean back into a narrow use list, mostly for things it is intended to be used for. My biggest concerns with Brake Clean products have to do with user health risks. By its nature, Brake Clean is instantly fat-soluble, so it passes rather effortlessly through skin and flesh to contaminate blood and nerve tissues. We've isolated some of the chlorinated products because of enhanced risks and some carcinogenic concerns, but the green-can non-chlorinated versions are only marginally (at best...) safer.

My most serious little small-parts washer is a mini coffee can with a screw cap, and it has deodorized mineral spirts (read: paint thinner) as the grease dissolver. Put the parts in, screw the cap on, shaken not stirred, and pull them with a magnet or tongs, wash with detergent and water. All with gloves and glasses. Good for removing the old remains of grease in the window motor drive case, after the bulk of the old grease is removed with a scraper and paper towels. The mineral spirits does a lot less damage to seals than Brake Clean, even the green-can stuff.

The drive cases need something that will continue to flow into the gears themselves over a longer time. Real "greases" are bends of waxes and soaps as thickeners to carry oils beyond where gravity might prevent just the oil to maintain contact with the friction faces. What's the best? Maybe the best question is "What's required?" Almost any grease will protect the pieces if it stays in place. I've used good old synthetic #2 from Redline/Mobil-1/etc. in the duty. The actual service is better served by a thinner grease/lubricant that flows better as the gears and the little 'rack' move in the housing. The service need move to some 0 and 00 grade synthetic greases that would be fabulous so long as the casing and seals can keep it inside.

I've used Redline #2 and some Mobil-1 #2 in this service with good results. Still, they are on 10-15 year replacement schedules, based on some experiences in other services where they separate in time. A temptation is to use one of the 0-grade silicone greases since they don't separate over time.

Same duty requirements apply to wiper motor gearcases, should that question come up.

For locks and sunroof components use dielectric grease. It’s hydrophobic so it repels water, salt and prevents electrolysis. Use sparingly.