Carpokes

Looks like I may have to replace the oil filter housing gasket on my recently acquired late 944 turbo. It had a big overhaul around 11 years ago and was then stored in the owners garage. But there is a small persistent water leak from the oil filter housing console/block gasket. I'm guessing the gasket was installed dry, rather than with sealant, as seems to be the advice now. So, where are those paper thin plastic O rings used?

blade7 wrote: Sat Mar 21, 2026 11:59 am Looks like I may have to replace the oil filter housing gasket on my recently acquired late 944 turbo. It had a big overhaul around 11 years ago and was then stored in the owners garage. But there is a small persistent water leak from the oil filter housing console/block gasket. I'm guessing the gasket was installed dry, rather than with sealant, as seems to be the advice now. So, where are those paper thin plastic O rings used?

Paper thin plastic o-rings? Not sure what you are referring to? In the early days, the oil filter console used a series of individual seals, but those were long since replaced with one integrated seal like the one circled in red below. If you are using anything other than the one circled in red, ditch it! I just went through this exact same thing -- with an external coolant leak between the console and block. Turned out the grove where the seal goes was quite pitted in my oil console, so I used Curil T (now T2) on the gasket (and oil cooler hose fittings) and it worked like a champ. If yours is leaking externally, I wouldn't hesitate to use Curil T on it. Sure beats doing the job twice...

See more from my recent work here: viewtopic.php?t=4665

And see our Oil Seal replacement instructions in the 944 Handbook -- paying particular attention to the little aluminum tube with o-ring grooves. That part was updated to help prevent mixing.

Hi, I'm not talking about the main gasket, it's the 2 metal washers and the plastic 1 in this picture. I want to know how they are fitted when I refit the OPRV? Thanks

blade7 wrote: Sat Mar 21, 2026 5:56 pm gasket.jpg Hi, I'm not talking about the main gasket, it's the 2 metal washers and the plastic 1 in this picture. I want to know how they are fitted when I refit the OPRV? Thanks

Those kits include parts for multiple cars. The plastic spacer and shim is for the N/A cooler housings, so not used on the turbo. Here's an excerpt from our oil seal R&R document, with the list of actual part numbers for the job. Some have been superseded, but they will point you to what you need....

1. Console Housing Gasket: 944 107 147 03
2. Oil Connector Pipe O-rings (2 needed): 999 707 043 40
Note: Seal kit 944 107 165 98 includes items 1 and 2 above, plus unneeded
parts used on other 944 motors.
3. Oil Pressure Relief Valve O-ring:
For original 3-piece valve: no O-ring needed
For retrofit one-piece in a 1986 motor: 944 107 935 11 or 999 707 145 40
For 1987 and later motors: 944 107 935 01 or 999 707 144 40
4. Oil Pressure Relief Valve Seal Washer (all): N 043 815 3
5. Oil Pressure Relief Valve Installation Tool:
For 1986 motors: 9215
For 1987 and later motors: 9262/1
6. Oil Connector Pipe (updated): 951 107 152 03
7. Oil Pressure Relief Valve (if needed):
For 1986 motors: 944 107 035 11
For 1987 and later motors: 944 107 035 01
8. Oil Cooler Hoses: 951 207 113 03 and 951 207 111 03
9. Seal washers for oil line fittings (2 needed): 900 123 011 30

Thank you Tom. When I bought the car it came with a lot of new parts in Porsche packets, with part numbers that mean nothing to me. Hopefully some of those parts will be ones you listed.

Paul

Here in the UK suppliers are charging $60+ for a metal alignment tool. Which is quite spendy for what would probably be a single use tool. I don't have a printer to make a plastic one though. I have read of people using the late OPRV to align the housing?

blade7 wrote: Sun Mar 22, 2026 7:58 am Here in the UK suppliers are charging $60+ for a metal alignment tool. Which is quite spendy for what would probably be a single use tool. I don't have a printer to make a plastic one though. I have read of people using the late OPRV to align the housing?

A number of public libraries in the U.K. have 3D printers available for public use, depending on where you are. No idea how dimensionally accurate they might be, however, and you definitely need the alignment tool to mic out nearly perfect. Probably a rat hole not worth going down unless you're into it.

If you have a one piece OPRV, you can use it to align the housing. Just use the old o-ring while aligning and continually check that the OPRV screws in/out (all the way in) easily as you tighten the housing down. If there's any real risk, it seems to me it's less about misaligning the housing and more about tweaking the OPRV as you tighten down the housing. Bent OPRV's --even a tiny bit-- are bad OPRVs... wtf:

Tom, did you take your OPRV apart, and replace the internal o-rings?

blade7 wrote: Mon Mar 23, 2026 11:41 am Tom, did you take your OPRV apart, and replace the internal o-rings?

I did not. It was working fine so figured if it's not broken don't fix it...