New 3D-Printed 944 Timing Belt Tensioner Tool
I have an 88 with the automatic tensioner.
The clarks garage procedure mentions the technique: rotate crank CW 2 rotations, then CCW 1 1/2 tooth, then check tension.
If I am using the carpokes 3d tool, do i still rotate 1 1/2 tooth CCW before checking tension?
Thanks
The clarks garage procedure mentions the technique: rotate crank CW 2 rotations, then CCW 1 1/2 tooth, then check tension.
If I am using the carpokes 3d tool, do i still rotate 1 1/2 tooth CCW before checking tension?
Thanks
- Tom
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Yes!howdo wrote: Mon Nov 04, 2024 7:09 am I have an 88 with the automatic tensioner.
The clarks garage procedure mentions the technique: rotate crank CW 2 rotations, then CCW 1 1/2 tooth, then check tension.
If I am using the carpokes 3d tool, do i still rotate 1 1/2 tooth CCW before checking tension?
Thanks
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Jakemeifter
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Had to make one comment so here it is. I also have arnworx but i got it used and kind of hard to use i feel from last time but im gonna have a friend print this for me and want to try it out
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HITMAnsOFT
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Hi @Tom , what are you using on the bed for adhesion for NylonX? I have tried different Nylon and Polycarbonate filaments and always had it lifting up for large enough parts. I'm using Creality K1C which is an enclosed printer with hardened hot-end and both smooth and textured PEI build plates.
- Tom
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On my prior printer (lulzbot Taz 6) I used a garolite bed with Nano Polymer bed glue. Even then, it was a real challenge without a heated chamber. Worth trying this glue, however, if you haven't already. It sticks too well for most prints, so I tend to water it down with alcohol.HITMAnsOFT wrote: Wed Nov 13, 2024 12:08 am Hi @Tom , what are you using on the bed for adhesion for NylonX? I have tried different Nylon and Polycarbonate filaments and always had it lifting up for large enough parts. I'm using Creality K1C which is an enclosed printer with hardened hot-end and both smooth and textured PEI build plates.
https://www.amazon.com/Vision-Miner-Pol ... 32454&th=1
I've since switched to the Bambu X1C and use their nylon cf filaments on a smooth PEI bed and maybe a drop of the nano glue for challenging parts. The X1C is a game changer -- almost never have adhesion issues. One trick is to heat up the bed and let the interior warm up before starting the print.
p.s. if you use the thread insert and install the support screws on the belt post -- which is how I sell them -- then there is zero need for nylon cf for this tool. I use ABS, but even PLA or PetG is fine. I just shy away from PLA because of its very low heat resistance (don't want to ship a tool and have it show up melted)....
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HITMAnsOFT
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Thanks for the suggestions! I think I have ABS-CF or ABS-GF laying around somewhere waiting to be used, will try those instead on this part. I like experimenting with materials with this printer (it's very similar to Bambu X1C feature-wise). Also I will probably add a chamber heater to my K1C.Tom wrote: Wed Nov 13, 2024 7:19 am
p.s. if you use the thread insert and install the support screws on the belt post -- which is how I sell them -- then there is zero need for nylon cf for this tool. I use ABS, but even PLA or PetG is fine. I just shy away from PLA because of its very low heat resistance (don't want to ship a tool and have it show up melted)....
As for PLA, never trusted that stuff since I got into 3D printing several years ago. ABS is what I use almost exclusively because I mostly do functional parts and not much aesthetic.
As for this tool, I assume it is calibrated too tight for the balance belt, right? Would it be as simple as adding a new notch to support the balance belt too?
EDIT: Just noticed that there is already a discussion on balance belt, and realized it will need a new tool because it will be used in another location on the engine.
