What did you do with your 718 this week?

[ReidMcT]

That looks great! How'd you do it?

Wow, thanks! I can't actually recall where I saw the info. It was all other people who led the way, probably on the 718 forum. I must do better at giving credit.

You can buy new inserts at Suncoast, the two switch modules and the bottom bezel.
Start here, pick your transmission, then scroll down to steering wheel trim:
https://www.suncoastparts.com/category/ ... TKNOB.html


Or, you can do as I did and buy used parts. I got mine from a specialist in Germany whose info eludes me. I'll try to find it and edit here.

Found it: https://migmann.com/collections/porsche-other-parts


The work is not difficult, but study up on the procedure before you start popping out the airbag. Also, you need to be the sort who is comfortable with pieces flopping loosely and threatening to fall apart at once, while you memorize the routing of the wires as you pull them free. This is where used parts help a lot, because the wires are pre-bent, so they fall right into place in the various bends and clamp points, making reassembly quick, with less jostling of other loose, flopping pieces.

Oh, here's illustrated guidance:
https://rennlist.com/forums/718-gts-4-0 ... pokes.html

I did my swap without stripping the wheel down as they show. I did only the minimum necessary to place the new inserts and plug them in. BTW, every plug is unique; idiot proof.

[J-Dub]

A few random updates:

A few week ago I brought the Cayman to the dealer for a windshield replacement. While it was there I asked them to look at the CV boots as they are leaking grease. They did the windshield replacement but part of re-aligning of the safety systems was a wheel alignment. The tech was cool and gave me some details on the before an after and did not return it to factory specification. He ended up adjusting the toe front and rear as well as taking a bit of camber out of the rear for some reason.

While the car was at the dealer they looked at the leaky CV boots and denied it as a warranty work as I had lowered the car and replaced the over axle pipes with aftermarket units. Sort of disappointed with that answer but I don't know what I should expect. I had previously put new clamps on the big ends but now two of the small ends are leaking. My plan is to remove both clamps on all 4 CV boots, clean, re-grease and use Optimum Grey RTV High Temperature on the seating surface. I have extra big end clamps and ordered new small inner clamps. Somehow I ended up receiving more outer clamps so I have sent in another order for the inner clamps.

Over the Thanksgiving holiday I purchased a mixed bag of used and new brake parts. I got a used set of GiroDisk 350/350mm rotors with about half the life left as well as new front and rear brake rotor ring replacements. 1 set of new rear Ferodo 3.12 pads and some titanium shims for all 4 corners.

Did a track day on Sunday, always a good time.

Last night I removed my track wheels and started to prepare for the CV boot work. I removed the rear splash shield as well as rear bracing to give me easy access. I also removed the rear brakes as the rear pads I have are getting pretty thin. I then stared to clean up the slung grease again. Considering leaving off the rear brake dust/splash shields like I did the fronts, seem they are in the way for the air to be brought into the rotor vanes. Still deciding what rear brake parts to install from the assortment of new and used parts I have now.

While I was down there I thought boy this sure is a good time to replace the spark plugs. I have a set of new plugs and the special socket so that is on my list as well. The car does not have that many miles but according to Porsche they should be replaced every 4 years. I am not planning to replace my factory exhaust manifolds however if you ever did, the spark plugs would be a natural thing to do as well. The manifolds are the main thing in your way when doing the spark plug replacement.

So that all is on my to do list for the next week or two.

[WillyDaP]

Ordered a wheel stud kit from Apex Wheels since they were 20% off and free shipping. Had asked my wife if she bought me a Birthday present yet, and when she said no, I jumped at the chance to get what I really wanted, ha. I kind of figured my timing was correct since she just had her hip replaced and I am currently Uber Bill, Nurse Bill, Chef Bill and Housekeeping Bill, but with racing and track goodies timing is not always just relegated to a road course.

[J-Dub]

Changed my spark plugs tonight, it is a bit tight in there but once you get used to working in the space it is not that bad.

Remove heat shield, three trox screws per side.
Remove coils, one screw and one wiring clip per coil. To remove wiring clip first push back the yellow tab.
Remove and replace spark plugs.

I did use the special Porsche socket and the new NGK spark plugs also came from Porsche. I used an assortment of socket extensions, one with a wobble as shown below for 5 of them, the left rear plug required a slightly different arrangement of extensions as I had to add a swivel.

The spark plugs did have some discoloration on the threads but the electrode did not look worn. 18k miles but Porsche recommends changing them every 4 years. I would go longer next time.

Yes, that is blood on the edge of the body in the second picture. The sheet metal is sharp right under there.

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IMG_5725.jpeg (2.71 MiB) Viewed 1558 times

[ReidMcT]

The spark plugs did have some discoloration on the threads but the electrode did not look worn. 18k miles but Porsche recommends changing them every 4 years. I would go longer next time.

IMG_5724.jpegIMG_5725.jpeg

Don't go longer on the interval. It's not about the electrode, it's the risk of threads seizing over time.

[J-Dub]

@ReidMcT I know what you are saying. In the old days steel spark plug bodies used to get stuck in aluminum heads commonly, galvanic corrosion and galled threads. This is why people started to use anti-seize on the threads of spark plugs. Now a days the spark plug manufactures coat the threads with materials that does not seize in the threads and I feel the recommendation is not really keeping up with technology. However they were not very hard to change once you get going.

[J-Dub]

I put new clamps and added high temp grease to my CV boots. Hit each sealing point with high temp RTV. Hoping for the best, considering adding cooling ducts.
https://alekshop.com/products/porsche-r ... g-duct-kit

Installed the used set of GiroDisc 350/350 I bought last week. I retained my current 3.12 front pads and put new set of rear 3.12 pads. My rear pads were past it, apparently the PTV really does a number on them when out on track. The sensors were really worn down and brittle but did not trigger, they were difficult to remove as there was not a good place to grab them from.

Hoping these used rotors rings last a bit and I will put the new rings on next time I put in a new set of pads.

[ReidMcT]

@ReidMcT I know what you are saying. In the old days steel spark plug bodies used to get stuck in aluminum heads commonly, galvanic corrosion and galled threads. This is why people started to use anti-seize on the threads of spark plugs. Now a days the spark plug manufactures coat the threads with materials that does not seize in the threads and I feel the recommendation is not really keeping up with technology. However they were not very hard to change once you get going.

My dearly departed '17 CB came to me with the plugs overdue at 40k miles. Removing them was a scary experience. I had to apply a lot of wrenching force continuously as I removed them, maybe about 30Nm. They did come out OK, but I don't relish a repeat. See photo.

In contrast, when I changed my '21 CTM6 on schedule at 30k miles, the plugs all behaved as one expects: Crack them loose, then remove by hand.

[Tom]

I've avoid anti-seize on spark plugs as they increase the resistance to ground, in theory anyway. When I was running high boost on my 951, I could swear the ignition was stronger (less high-boost missing) without anti-seize.

[J-Dub]

I've avoid anti-seize on spark plugs as they increase the resistance to ground, in theory anyway. When I was running high boost on my 951, I could swear the ignition was stronger (less high-boost missing) without anti-seize.

Absolutely agree with you.