Need MaxxECU base tune

[SirLapsalot]

Going to need some time to digest that lol but great info.

I’ve added a picture of what I’m seeing. To be crystal clear, I have no idea what I’m doing and I’ve hadn’t had time to troubleshoot. I’ve literally spent half an hour or less with the ECU. So I don’t know if I’m graphing the right thing. I do want to study up so that I know what to ask.

Hard to tell from your screen shot because of how zoomed out the display is, but does look a bit noisy. The TDC areas in particular look a bit odd. Would be easier to see the actual data though. If you can attach a log file we can look more closely. Think it should be a .MaxxECU-log file or .MaxxECU-Zip-Log file. or just export as .csv.

[944m3]

Short update. I was able to figure out logging a little bit. At this point the trigger sensors seem to be working fine as we can tell in the picture. I’m getting steady RPM reading of mid 180. I did also try different Arming voltage but didn’t seem to make a difference. Started .2 at 200 RPM and tried .5 and .6 and also .7 as I’m seeing about 1.3v output from the trigger sensor. I think I have that logic right.

So now it seems no spark or signal to coil. I’m digging into that now. I used an inline light to see if I’m getting spark. The light did not go on as far as I could tell. I used the ECU test feature and interestingly the light goes on very very dimly. At first glance it doesn’t seem like it’s on. Last time I used for another occasion the light was nice and bright when cranking. So trying to figure out why the spark is so weak or if that’s normal for test from ECU. The vendor has assured me other customers have successfully started their cars with the base tune he provided. I’ll keep plugging along and learning as I go.

[Bergerac]

Probably easier if you share the ignition config with us, is it wired to the correct ignition output?

Im not sure how the test function works on the Maxx but on my link it pulses at 10 Hz so you may only see a dim light

Does the Maxx have a trigger sync/status in the software to confirm its happy with the signal its seeing?

[Tom]

Short update. I was able to figure out logging a little bit. At this point the trigger sensors seem to be working fine as we can tell in the picture. I’m getting steady RPM reading of mid 180. I did also try different Arming voltage but didn’t seem to make a difference. Started .2 at 200 RPM and tried .5 and .6 and also .7 as I’m seeing about 1.3v output from the trigger sensor. I think I have that logic right.

So now it seems no spark or signal to coil. I’m digging into that now. I used an inline light to see if I’m getting spark. The light did not go on as far as I could tell. I used the ECU test feature and interestingly the light goes on very very dimly. At first glance it doesn’t seem like it’s on. Last time I used for another occasion the light was nice and bright when cranking. So trying to figure out why the spark is so weak or if that’s normal for test from ECU. The vendor has assured me other customers have successfully started their cars with the base tune he provided. I’ll keep plugging along and learning as I go.

Now those look like proper speed and ref signals. Was I right to think that earlier scope shot was a configuration issue with the ECU or scope -- or did you have to fix something on the car to clean up the signals? As for the spark, if you are using all the same parts that ran ok on the DME, then my guess would be a configuration issue in the ECU set up.

[944m3]

@Bergerac Will send a screenshot of the ignition config tomorrow. And yes the software does record sync errors. But not reporting anything in my case so I’m going to assume it’s happy.

@Tom I changed the Sample Time, basically zoomed out. Made no changes to the triggers, such as adjust the gaps. Meaning that it seems the adapter harness is working correctly.

My plan tomorrow is to check that the coil is getting 12v on each connection side, power and ground, using multimeter when the ignition is in the ON position.

[cda951]

So now it seems no spark or signal to coil. I’m digging into that now. I used an inline light to see if I’m getting spark. The light did not go on as far as I could tell. I used the ECU test feature and interestingly the light goes on very very dimly. At first glance it doesn’t seem like it’s on. Last time I used for another occasion the light was nice and bright when cranking. So trying to figure out why the spark is so weak or if that’s normal for test from ECU.

This is key, and indicates a wiring or connection fault causing high resistance and the inability of the circuit to carry a load. This needs to be checked on both the positive side of the coil/terminal 15 switched ignition source and the terminal 1/negative side which is pulsed by the ECU ignition driver.

An important concept to remember is that current/amperage throughout the circuit will be the same no matter where it is measured, but voltage will vary based on the resistance in that particular leg of the circuit, so using an old-school test light on both the positive and negative sides will help to determine if the problem is related to contact resistance and/or bad wiring causing a voltage drop in the circuit.

Voltage drop can be further measured by placing the positive and negative leads of a voltmeter between each connection point of a circuit while it is loaded. Sometimes key on/engine off is enough to find an issue in the terminal 15 circuit, while other times the engine only catches after the key is released from the terminal 50/starter circuit, indicating an ignition switch issue.

[944m3]

Good information.

I tested this morning, as far as I can tell I’m getting 12v on both positive and negative side of the coil.

Back to google to figure out what to test next.

[chris white]

Good information.

I tested this morning, as far as I can tell I’m getting 12v on both positive and negative side of the coil.

Back to google to figure out what to test next.

Normal. The ECU triggers the coil by sending a ground signal. when the engine isnt running you will get 12v on both sides.

[944m3]

Good information.

I tested this morning, as far as I can tell I’m getting 12v on both positive and negative side of the coil.

Back to google to figure out what to test next.

Normal. The ECU triggers the coil by sending a ground signal. when the engine isnt running you will get 12v on both sides.

Meaning that I could still have an issue with ECU sending ground signal and thus firing the coil?

[chris white]

Good information.

I tested this morning, as far as I can tell I’m getting 12v on both positive and negative side of the coil.

Back to google to figure out what to test next.

Normal. The ECU triggers the coil by sending a ground signal. when the engine isnt running you will get 12v on both sides.

Meaning that I could still have an issue with ECU sending ground signal and thus firing the coil?

its either in the ecu signal to the coil (maybe not enough dwell to really fire the coil) or its the coil/wire/plugs. Could also be a serious voltage drop to the coil when cranking.
Usually, the ECU is programmed with more dwell at cranking to compensate for voltage drop.
The old school tests are to hook up a spark plug outside the engine and ground the body and look at the spark. I also use the other old school tool – timing light. Not to time it but to watch the spark for consistency while cranking.