Need MaxxECU base tune

[chris white]

Curious why you say the front mount will be zero help if the factory harness is suspect? Do people use the factory harness for front-mount triggers? Isn't that like serving a Gordon Ramsay meal on a paper plate?

944 people do some pretty weird things!

[ealoken]

When modifying this much, I often wonder why people don't get new harnesses.
Bas in the Netherlands builds new harnesses for Maxxecu. I recommend to get one.

I have front hub from DRS Development and 60-2 trigger.
Ati harmonic balancer.
Using a Ford sensor.

[944m3]

I use a front mount 60-2 from Clewett and found it to be by far the nicest and cleanest solution if not using 60-2 flywheel. If you move to front mount I’d recommend that one. However, that will be zero help if your OE side loom is suspect. So again I’d start there first.

Curious why you say the front mount will be zero help if the factory harness is suspect? Do people use the factory harness for front-mount triggers? Isn't that like serving a Gordon Ramsay meal on a paper plate?

This won’t be an issue for me as the adapter harness has available plug/connection for a new trigger sensor. In other words, I’m bypassing stock harness all together. Which I think is pretty cool.

For the record, I’d eat a Gordon Ramsey meal from a paper plate

[944m3]

When modifying this much, I often wonder why people don't get new harnesses.
Bas in the Netherlands builds new harnesses for Maxxecu. I recommend to get one.

I have front hub from DRS Development and 60-2 trigger.
Ati harmonic balancer.
Using a Ford sensor.

It’s a fair point, and you’re right. In my case, cost was a factor. I planned to build the harness myself, how hard can it be haha Was just trying to buy some time.

[SirLapsalot]

I use a front mount 60-2 from Clewett and found it to be by far the nicest and cleanest solution if not using 60-2 flywheel. If you move to front mount I’d recommend that one. However, that will be zero help if your OE side loom is suspect. So again I’d start there first.

Curious why you say the front mount will be zero help if the factory harness is suspect? Do people use the factory harness for front-mount triggers? Isn't that like serving a Gordon Ramsay meal on a paper plate?

He mentioned he’s using an “adapter for stock harness” so I inferred that to mean the whole engine loom was OE and simply had a jumper harness at the ECU bulkhead connectors plugging into the OE engine loom, like most plug&play kits have. So in that case if he went front mount I assumed he’d just make a sub harness to run the front mount sensor to the OE loom/connector at the back of the manifold. So if the rest of the OE loom was in place and internally shorted or open it would be pointless.

Now he’s saying he’s bypassing the stock harness all together, which I assume means for the speed and reference sensors only but it’s not very clear.

[Tom]

I use a front mount 60-2 from Clewett and found it to be by far the nicest and cleanest solution if not using 60-2 flywheel. If you move to front mount I’d recommend that one. However, that will be zero help if your OE side loom is suspect. So again I’d start there first.

Curious why you say the front mount will be zero help if the factory harness is suspect? Do people use the factory harness for front-mount triggers? Isn't that like serving a Gordon Ramsay meal on a paper plate?

He mentioned he’s using an “adapter for stock harness” so I inferred that to mean the whole engine loom was OE and simply had a jumper harness at the ECU bulkhead connectors plugging into the OE engine loom, like most plug&play kits have. So in that case if he went front mount I assumed he’d just make a sub harness to run the front mount sensor to the OE loom/connector at the back of the manifold. So if the rest of the OE loom was in place and internally shorted or open it would be pointless.

Now he’s saying he’s bypassing the stock harness all together, which I assume means for the speed and reference sensors only but it’s not very clear.

Ah, I see, extension cables that clip on to the originals would be next-level hillbilly. Don't do that.

[SirLapsalot]

Curious why you say the front mount will be zero help if the factory harness is suspect? Do people use the factory harness for front-mount triggers? Isn't that like serving a Gordon Ramsay meal on a paper plate?

He mentioned he’s using an “adapter for stock harness” so I inferred that to mean the whole engine loom was OE and simply had a jumper harness at the ECU bulkhead connectors plugging into the OE engine loom, like most plug&play kits have. So in that case if he went front mount I assumed he’d just make a sub harness to run the front mount sensor to the OE loom/connector at the back of the manifold. So if the rest of the OE loom was in place and internally shorted or open it would be pointless.

Now he’s saying he’s bypassing the stock harness all together, which I assume means for the speed and reference sensors only but it’s not very clear.

Ah, I see, extension cables that clip on to the originals would be next-level hillbilly. Don't do that.

I wasn’t personally recommending clip on anything, think you might be confused but at this point we’re just making assumptions all around.

OP, are you running this kit?
https://www.drivestore.se/en/webshop/ma ... xxecu.html


If not, which one or which options?

[944m3]

Didn’t mean to start a commotion.

@SirLapsalot yes that er be the one. Got the Race version to include knock sensor.

[Tom]

He mentioned he’s using an “adapter for stock harness” so I inferred that to mean the whole engine loom was OE and simply had a jumper harness at the ECU bulkhead connectors plugging into the OE engine loom, like most plug&play kits have. So in that case if he went front mount I assumed he’d just make a sub harness to run the front mount sensor to the OE loom/connector at the back of the manifold. So if the rest of the OE loom was in place and internally shorted or open it would be pointless.

Now he’s saying he’s bypassing the stock harness all together, which I assume means for the speed and reference sensors only but it’s not very clear.

Ah, I see, extension cables that clip on to the originals would be next-level hillbilly. Don't do that.

I wasn’t personally recommending clip on anything, think you might be confused but at this point we’re just making assumptions all around.

OP, are you running this kit?
https://www.drivestore.se/en/webshop/ma ... xxecu.html


If not, which one or which options?

No worries, I didn't think you were suggesting that -- I was reacting to the possibility of 944m3 doing that.

[SirLapsalot]

Didn’t mean to start a commotion.

@SirLapsalot yes that er be the one. Got the Race version to include knock sensor.

Very good, that's a nice ECU and looks like a good kit. However, from what I can tell, that kit appears to rely exclusively on the OE engine harness with the exception of an IAT and ignition amplifier via a sub-harness. So I'm a bit confused about your comment regarding an adapter harness that bypasses the stock harness you reference here:

I use a front mount 60-2 from Clewett and found it to be by far the nicest and cleanest solution if not using 60-2 flywheel. If you move to front mount I’d recommend that one. However, that will be zero help if your OE side loom is suspect. So again I’d start there first.

Curious why you say the front mount will be zero help if the factory harness is suspect? Do people use the factory harness for front-mount triggers? Isn't that like serving a Gordon Ramsay meal on a paper plate?

This won’t be an issue for me as the adapter harness has available plug/connection for a new trigger sensor. In other words, I’m bypassing stock harness all together. Which I think is pretty cool.

For the record, I’d eat a Gordon Ramsey meal from a paper plate

Do you have pictures of the adapter you're referring to? Might make it easier to understand and help troubleshoot.

As others have said, using the OE harness is maybe not ideal in this application, but its what you got... So if we have a better idea the wiring situation it might help determine if your problem is wiring, calibration (arming voltage, tooth gaps, etc.), or hardware (sensor gaps, bad sensor, ECU capability, etc.).