Well - finally have the pan back on and crossmember set back in place. Able to move the support now to put the intake back together to test it.
One interesting point for comment. I probably went around the pan in "stage one" tightening sequence 12-15 times (36 in-lbs.). I just kept having too go back and start over, but what I noticed was the amount of turning to break point decreased slightly each time I started over. Eventually some bolts would no longer break away at all.
Once I got them all to 36 consistently, I moved on to 84 in-lbs. It only took two sequences to lock it in. I thought that was interesting but hey - if it does not leak I will take it.
Will report back.
Oil pan gasket sealing
- Drscottsmith
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- Drscottsmith
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I believe it is indeed the gasket - I cannot see any other sources above it (especially now that 1/2 of the motor is out again to get the gasket back off.
I sure hope so and that this fixes it!
I sure hope so and that this fixes it!
- Drscottsmith
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Figured out that my alternator pulley was loose (am using a 125A unit Nissan Quest mod so that held me up). Now am trying to get the oil pump reprimed - taking longer than it did the first time around and I have no idea why. Takes forever when giving the starter a break so as not to burn it out.
Once I get pressure there we should be able to start and test for leaks.
Once I get pressure there we should be able to start and test for leaks.
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michaelmount123
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Take the spark plugs out when spinning the engine to build OP. It's a lot easier on the starter, will spin faster, and OP will come up quicker.Drscottsmith wrote: Wed Mar 13, 2024 5:32 am Figured out that my alternator pulley was loose (am using a 125A unit Nissan Quest mod so that held me up). Now am trying to get the oil pump reprimed - taking longer than it did the first time around and I have no idea why. Takes forever when giving the starter a break so as not to burn it out.
Once I get pressure there we should be able to start and test for leaks.
Here's another tip: Reassemble your oil pump with LUBRIPLATE No. 105 White Motor Assembly Grease. It's thicker than oil, and will allow the oil pump to pull and push 'harder' to get oil from the pan throughout the engine much quicker. Many other uses too.
- Drscottsmith
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Well finally some success!! I am going to double and triple check for sure but I think the leak has been stopped and I can move back into the final reassembly of everything!
Thanks to all for the help and suggestions.
Thanks to all for the help and suggestions.
- Drscottsmith
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This really is driving me crazy…
So all seemed to be really good. Leak stopped. Oil pressure good, etc.
Had to take front apart to get all of the timing covers, etc back in place. Put all back together and now get no oil pressure at the gauge like I was. Tried with plugs in and out, the air pressure trick, reverse priming - no pressure build. Here is a video of the oil moving with no filter and no plugs in…
So all seemed to be really good. Leak stopped. Oil pressure good, etc.
Had to take front apart to get all of the timing covers, etc back in place. Put all back together and now get no oil pressure at the gauge like I was. Tried with plugs in and out, the air pressure trick, reverse priming - no pressure build. Here is a video of the oil moving with no filter and no plugs in…
- Tom
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Sure you torqued the front pulley bolt all the way to 155 ft lbs when you took the front apart?
